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How to Choose a Bike

I am a serial exerciser, but equipment is not my passion. If I can't buy the needed sporting equipment and be dribbling, running, stepping, rowing, or swooshing in less than 30 minutes, I'm not game. Then there was cycling.

I've been late to work so I could catch the last minutes of Tour de France live coverage on TV. But I didn't consider getting a "real" bike until I wrote an article several years ago about the Group Health Seattle to Portland Bicycle Classic, the extremely popular 200-mile event.

Getting Beyond the Garage
No stranger to cycling, I had purchased my bicycles at department stores. I chose them primarily for color: pink, red, silver, and black. Each one soon languished in garages and basement storage lockers.

"Bicycles purchased in a department store get ridden an average total of 12 miles," says Tim Arnold, owner of Bicycle Butler in Spokane. "Department store bicycles are basically garage decorations. Look for an independent bike dealer who can assess your needs and get you on a bike that works for you."

Walk into any bicycle store — with hundreds of bikes lined up on the floor and hanging from the ceiling like so many bats in a cave — and it's immediately apparent that color is the least important quality of a bicycle.

But first, decide on a budget. "If you are going to be riding quite a bit, you can get a nice bike for between $400 to $800*," says Arnold.

Do Your Homework
At least once a year, all of the major bicycling magazines come out with buyer's guides, but beware of fads and especially the often fuzzy relationship between advertising and editorial content.

"The best research you can do is to ask your friends what they like to ride," explains Eric Moe, sales manager at Kulshan Cycles in Bellingham. "Then get some recommendations on bike shops in your area. You'll start to hear the same names of local dealers who have good reputations."

Don't limit your conversations to hardcore cyclists. For instance, my hair stylist owns three vintage 10-speed bicycles — one of which is probably parked outside his salon in downtown Seattle right now.

Eventually you will have to "talk the talk" with bike sales people.

"We need to know three things: how much you want to spend, what type of riding you are planning on doing now, and what kind of riding you hope to do six months from now," says Lloyd Tamura, owner of Velo Bike Shop in Seattle. "Some people just want to do casual riding, and others buy a bicycle and then totally go nuts with the sport."

If a bike salesperson pressures you or makes you feel stupid, leave the store. It's imperative that you buy a bike at a place where you feel comfortable going back to ask questions. It also helps if the shop has mechanics on staff who can help you maintain your new bicycle.

Decide on Type
Unless you want to recline on a recumbent, double up with a friend on a tandem, or just be a cool cat on a one-speed cruiser, the majority of bicycles fall into three categories: mountain, road, or hybrid.

Decide where you will be doing the majority of your riding and hone the options accordingly.

TERRAIN
BASICS
BIKE TYPE
off-road or wilderness trails
wider tires, robust frames
mountain
paved roads or paved trails
thinner tires, lighter weight
road
either paved or dirt roads
everything in between
hybrid
either paved or dirt roads
lean back in 'chair' seat; legs elevated
recumbent, bike or trike

"Hybrid style bikes bridge the gap between mountain and road bikes," says Arnold. "You need to really consider how you are going to be riding the bike. If you are going to be riding aggressively and not on a road of any kind, go with a mountain bike."

But Does It Fit?
Getting a bike that fits your body proportions is essential for a comfortable ride. It was news to me that the ability to straddle a bike does not mean it fits. Unfortunately, similar to women's clothing, there are no universal size standards for bicycles.

Bicycle salespeople may offer to measure you. Some charge for the service and will apply it to the cost of a bicycle if you purchase from them. Others do it for free but don't let you take those measurements with you to other shops.

The bike shop salesperson will record your measurements in a computerized or manual "fit kit," and match your measurements to the sizing specific to the bicycle brands of your choice.

"If you are the type of person who appreciates that kind of information — knowing how your body fits on a bike, where and why — doing a fit can be helpful," says Tamura. "It can also just be a sales gimmick. And it can take up to an hour. Some people don't have that kind of time and don't want a computer program telling them how high to place the handlebars."

When you decide on a bike, make sure the shop staff will adjust it so you have the proper bicycle fit. Otherwise, you'll suffer some needless aches and pains while riding.

Bike Anatomy
Bike frames run from heavier, less expensive material to lighter, more expensive.

Those materials include:
Low carbon steel (also known as hi-ten steel)
High carbon steel alloyed with chromium and molybdenum
Aluminum
Titanium

There are many combinations of materials in each category.

"Carbon fiber frames are popular in the mid to high-end frames," says Moe. "It's light and has a high fatigue life, plus it dampens vibrations on the road. Generally, aluminum has a greater strength to weight ratio, which is desirable in a mountain bike. Road bike folks traditionally have gone with steel frames. People get very attached to tradition in this industry."

Some people have a preference for specific brands of component parts — hubs, derailers, shifters, brakes, cables, crankset, bottom bracket, and chain. These are added to a bicycle frame in groups called gruppos (for instance, Shimano or Campagnolo are major brands). Gruppo brands have devotees, and the onus is again on the customer to do the research. Ask to see the manufacturer's specifications, called specs, to figure out what parts come with a bike.

Once you get fit for appropriate frame size, it's a good idea to ride a few different models of bicycles. Handlebars and saddles can be switched for other options, or adjusted.

"I advise people to get in some real world cycling on a new bike," says Arnold. "Go out and pedal for a couple of hours. Afterwards, if you feel like you just got out of a boxing ring, the bike needs to be adjusted. People who are new to cycling may want to get a bike with an adjustable bar and stem to accommodate less flexible neck and shoulders."

Get on the Road (or Trail)
Once you've found and purchased your bike, ride it. Don't be shy to ask the bicycle shop to make minor adjustments for comfort and also to tighten cables as they loosen with wear.

It's a good idea to check the tire pressure at home before each ride, especially high-pressure road tires that lose air even if your bike is just sitting in your garage. Knowing how to change a tire will give you confidence and save you the humiliation of hoofing it home in spandex shorts.

On the ride always carry a pump, a tire patch kit, and a spare inner tube in the correct size for your tire with a valve that fits your pump. I also carry an Allen wrench and a cell phone — I've used both.

What I Got — and Why
After doing the research, my reasoning went something like this: I live in a fourth-floor apartment with no elevator. If I'm going into the mountains, I want my feet on the trail. I also have a healthy aversion to steep inclines that set quadriceps on fire.

I decided to get a lightweight, highly maneuverable road bike. It has a triple crank gear system that, theoretically, makes hills easier to climb. And — it's green.

Luckily, I also now know a trusty mechanic who has checked the integrity of my bike — after a couple of slow-motion spills at intersections (cursed clipless pedals). He hasn't even made my eyes glaze over. OK, maybe once.

*This article was written in 2004 and reflects prices at that time.

By Pamela Richardson
Group Health staff writer

(In July 2004, Pamela rode in her first Group Health STP. See her suggestions for other riders.)

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